Green Chemistry Scales Circular Beauty

LanzaTech and Coty’s $14M joint venture converts industrial emissions into cosmetic-grade ethanol via gas fermentation, with pilot production starting Q4 2025. This accelerates the shift from petrochemicals, aligning with L’Oréal’s new €500M Green Chemistry Fund targeting bio-sourced pentylene glycol. Simultaneously, UBQ Materials launched a climate-positive thermoplastic from landfill waste for packaging, reducing carbon footprint by 12kg CO₂e per kg vs. conventional plastics.

Regulatory tremors hit as the EU proposed banning PFAS in cosmetics by 2027, affecting waterproof mascaras, foundations, and hair-smoothing treatments. Industry pushback focuses on essential-use exemptions. Meanwhile, China’s IECIC (Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients) underwent structural reforms in 2025:

• IECIC I (8,972 ingredients) streamlined historical data, removing obsolete “highest use concentration” metrics.
• IECIC II debuted for new cosmetic ingredients (NCIs) completing 3-year safety monitoring, with Acetylneuraminic Acid and Beta-Alanyl Hydroxyprolyldiaminobutyroyl Benzylamide as inaugural entries.
• Asphodelus microcarpus extract is not IECIC-listed; it remains a research-phase tyrosinase inhibitor. 

Table: China’s IECIC 2025 Reforms

Neurocosmetics & Precision Skin Ecosystems

Amway’s double-blind study revealed oral supplementation with Lactobacillus amylovorus LY-1 significantly lowered serum IL-6 and TNF-α levels in acne-prone subjects, validating the gut-skin axis as a formulation target. Topically, Givaudan’s Neuroglow™ peptide (inspired by neurotensin) demonstrated 19% cortisol reduction in stressed skin after 7 days, per EEG-backed biometric testing.

Symrise’s Skin Microbiome Atlas expanded to include 12 Asian ethnicities, identifying Staphylococcus epidermidis strain SE43 as critical for barrier integrity in humid climates. This informed their new prebiotic complex for ASEAN markets. Function of Beauty leveraged this data, launching microbiome-adjusted body washes targeting pH imbalances linked to Staphylococcus aureus overgrowth.

AI & Diagnostics Redefine Personalization

Shiseido’s “Formulation Studio Quantum” AI platform slashed R&D bottlenecks by simulating 100,000+ ingredient interactions in minutes. Its first output: a silicone-free, SPF 50+ sunscreen with rice bran wax achieving PFA PA++++ via algorithmic UV absorber pairing. P&G’s Opte Precision Wand integrated this tech, using hyperspectral imaging to detect melanin clusters for targeted serum application.

Diagnostics reached new heights with Beiersdorf’s Eucerin SkinSense Patch. This disposable NFC sensor monitors TEWL and pH for 72 hours, syncing data to an app that adjusts product recommendations hourly. Perfect Corp. partnered with dermatologists to train its AI on 1.2M clinical images, enabling teledermatology tools for 92% accuracy in rash identification via smartphone.

If you are interested in unlocking Beauty with Science, we cordially invite you to attend BIFA. Top industry experts will provide comprehensive insights into new trends and information regarding cosmetic ingredients and formulations.

Contact us now for more details about the Beauty Ingredients & Formulation Asia (BIFA)!

Notes:

1. LanzaTech/Coty Carbon-Captured Ethanol
2. EU Draft PFAS Restrictions
3. Shiseido Quantum AI Formulation
4. Beiersdorf Eucerin SkinSense Patch
5. China Issues Major Update to IECIC: Two-Tier Management and Dynamic Online Access

6. Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (IECIC)
7. Tyrosinase inhibition and antioxidant properties of Asphodelus microcarpus extracts
8. Understanding Compliance Requirements for Ingredients in China’s Special Cosmetics