BIFA Weekly
Ingredient breakthroughs, regulatory shifts, and tech-driven formulation advances
Subscribe to BIFA Weekly & Insights: Unlocking Beauty with Science, we warmly invite you to attend our Beauty Ingredients & Formulation Asia (BIFA) in 11-13 November 2025 AsiaWorld-Expo, Hong Kong. The symposium will feature top speakers who will delve deeply into various frontier topics within the cosmetic ingredients and formulation field.
Executive Summary:
Cellugy’s $9.25M bio-cellulose breakthrough accelerates microplastic replacement, while Unilever’s microbiome research confirms skin-brain links. AI slashes formulation timelines at L’Oréal/P&G by 50%, and Kao’s clinical marketing drives APAC expansion. Regulatory pressure intensifies with Washington’s cyclic siloxanes ban and EU cruelty-free roadmap.
Sustainable Ingredients Revolutionize Formulations
Cellugy’s BioFiber emerged as a headline innovation with its $9.25M EU grant to scale microplastic-free cellulose for emulsifiers and thickeners. The material enhances UV filter efficacy (EcoFlexy Sun SPF) and pigment vibrancy (EcoFlexy Color) while delivering luxury textures. Concurrently, BASF and Dow advanced biocatalytic esters like Evonik’s Tegosoft OER, positioning natural emollients for a $1.1B market by 2030. Squalane from sugarcane fermentation gained traction for carbon-neutral profiles, aligning with P&G’s new low-carbon framework targeting 40% Scope 3 emissions cuts by 2030.
Regulatory pressures intensified as Washington state added cyclic siloxanes to its toxic chemicals list, accelerating reformulation across preservatives and hair care. The EU’s “Save Cruelty Free Cosmetics” roadmap advanced toward 2026 implementation, emphasizing New Approach Methodologies (NAMs) for safety testing. Meanwhile, the SAFE Sunscreen Standards Act gained industry support to modernize FDA UV filter approvals, stalled since 1999.
Microbiome Science Links Skin to Mental Wellbeing
A landmark Unilever-University of Liverpool study confirmed Cutibacterium abundance correlates with reduced stress and improved mood, analyzing microbiome samples from facial/scalp/underarm areas alongside psychological assessments. This positions microbiome modulators (e.g., Allies of Skin’s copper peptides) as next-gen neurocosmetic actives. Parallel research on caffeine-adenosine shampoos demonstrated microbiome rebalancing: reduced Pseudomonas and Malassezia (-42%) alongside increased Cutibacterium (+31%), enhancing hair density and scalp lipid profiles.
Circana’s European report identified “self-soothing beauty” as the new lipstick effect, with stress-relieving formulations driving spending despite economic pressures. Brands like Avène responded via Dermfluencer Councils, deploying dermatologists to demystify science at retail. This trend converges with Unilever’s acquisition of Dr. Squatch, expanding male-focused microbiome grooming.
AI Transforms Formulation Efficiency
L’Oréal’s generative AI screens 16,000 terabytes of molecular data to accelerate ingredient discovery, enabling projects like Lancôme’s Cell Bioprint diagnostic chip (skin age analysis in 5 minutes). Similarly, P&G’s Albert Invent platform trained on 15M molecules now powers Nouryon’s BeautyCreations™, slashing formulation timelines by >50%. Boots partnered with L’Oréal on AI dermatology tools, using photo analysis to screen 70+ skin conditions via pharmacist-led consultations.
Hyper-personalization scaled with Pure Culture’s at-home skin tests ($89 kits) analyzing barrier health and microbiome diversity for custom serums. Algorithmic recommendations now drive 80% of Prose’s hair care sales, with searches for “AI skin analysis” up 1,071% since 2020.
If you are interested in unlocking Beauty with Science, we cordially invite you to attend BIFA. Top industry experts will provide comprehensive insights into new trends and information regarding cosmetic ingredients and formulations.
Contact us now for more details about the Beauty Ingredients & Formulation Asia (BIFA)!
Notes:
